0º – red nozzle: Narrow and powerful stream of water. Used for very difficult to remove stains, caked mud, tough dirt.
15º – yellow nozzle: Uses a small angle of spray for focused cleaning. Good for somewhat difficult to remove dirt.
25º – green nozzle: Uses a medium angle of spray for washing sensitive and soft surfaces (deck, fence, aluminum etc.)
40º – white nozzle: Largest angle of spray used for cleaning surfaces quickly and for rinsing.
65º – soap (black) nozzle: Soap tip is used in conjunction with the cleaning fluid. This is the only nozzle that can be used with cleaning solutions.
Applying chemicals in low pressure has two advantages. First, if the chemicals were applied in high pressure, they will splash off, resulting in wasted solution. Secondly, because chemical injection only works in low pressure, you can change from low pressure to high pressure at the wand, instead of going back to the unit to engage chemical injection.
The ratio that the chemical is diluted varies slightly from unit to unit. The most common ratios fall between 12:1 and 18:1.
NO! You must NOT use any household bleach with your machine. By using them you will damage the seals and o-rings in the gun, wand, hoses and pumps.
NO! Hot water can cause damage to the o-rings and pump. Once water reaches 145°F, the thermal relief will activate.
NO! Water that is drawn from a lake may contain debris that will cause the pump not to perform correctly. Also, it will shorten the life of the pump since they are not designed to draw water from a stationary source.
See your owner’s manual for the exact type of oil.
The recommended length is 100 feet. The unit will operate at lengths beyond this, but performance will somewhat decrease, and chemical injection may not operate satisfactorily.
Clogged nozzles can increase pump pressure and possibly damage the pump. Immediate attention is required.
1. Always disconnect your spray wand from the gun before cleaning your nozzles!
2. Clear the nozzle with a small rigid piece of wire such as a paper clip.
3. Flush the nozzle backwards with water.
4. Reconnect the wand to the gun
5. Restart the pressure washer and depress the trigger on the spray gun.
If the nozzle is still plugged or partially plugged, repeat number 1-4 If the previous procedure does not clear the nozzle, replace with a new nozzle.
You should always remove the gasoline from the engine if you plan to store the unit in your basement or transport it in a vehicle. You should never store combustible materials in your home.
If you must store your pressure washer in a location where the temperature is below 32°F, you can minimize the chance of damage to your machine by utilizing the following procedure:
1. Shut off the water supply and relieve pressure in the spray gun by depressing the trigger.
2. Disconnect the garden hose from the pressure washer, but the leave the high-pressure hose connected.
3. Tip the unit on its side with the inlet connection pointing up.
4. Insert a small funnel (to prevent spilling) into the inlet and pour in a 50/50 solution of antifreeze* and water.
5. Disconnect spark plug wire.
6. Without connecting the garden hose, pull the recoil several times to circulate the antifreeze in the pump system.
7. Continue to add antifreeze and pull the recoil until the antifreeze is expelled when the trigger is pulled.
8. Turn the unit upright.
Store your pressure washer in a clean, dry place that is well ventilated away from open flames or sparks. If you plan to store your pressure washer in a shed or unheated garage, be sure to winterize before the first frost. If you plan to store it in a basement, you should remove all gasoline from the engine.
If you run your engine for several minutes without spraying the wand, the pump will automatically purge water to protect it from overheating.
This is called the automatic cool-down or thermal relief system.
Both. The PSI delivers the “punch” to a washing application, or in other words, forces the contaminant off the surface. The GPM will flush the contaminants. Most homeowners and pressure washer contractors will opt for more PSI while the farmer and agriculture needs the flow to push contaminants to the final destination.